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Repairing
How to restore a timber table in a few easy steps
How to repair a large hole in plasterboard
How to repair a large hole in plasterboard
Overview
If you’ve had a mishap at home and you’re left with a large hole in your plasterboard, don’t worry—we’ve got you covered. This guide will help you take your wall from damaged to looking as good as new.
Safety tip: Always wear the appropriate safety equipment (safety glasses, gloves, ear muffs and a mask, for example) and always follow the instructions for the product or equipment.
Steps
Cut a piece of plaster to fit the hole
Start by measuring your hole and grabbing a piece of plasterboard. Cut this plaster just a little bigger than the size of the hole in the wall.
Mark and cut the damaged wall
Then, a great trick is to place the plasterboard over the hole and trace its shape directly onto the wall. Once the outline is drawn, carefully cut along the lines using a plasterboard saw or utility knife. Before cutting, check for any cables or pipes inside the wall to avoid damaging them. By cutting the hole to match the shape of your patch, the plasterboard piece will slot in perfectly later.
Prepare the timber batten
Next, measure the length of the cut-out section and cut a timber batten slightly longer than the hole. A timber piece around 42mm by 19mm works well, but any timber that’s at least 19mm thick will do the job.
Secure the timber batten
Insert the batten into the hole and position it so it overlaps the edges of the cut-out. Secure it in place with plasterboard screws, making sure it’s stable so that it provides good support for the patch.
Fit and secure the plasterboard patch
Once the batten is secured, place your plasterboard patch into the hole, ensuring it fits snugly. Use plasterboard screws to secure the patch to the timber batten. When screwing into plasterboard, avoid driving the screws too deep – they should sit just slightly below the surface. This prevents damaging the plasterboard and creates a smooth base for finishing. /p>
Tip: If you’re looking to colour-match the paint of your walls, visit us in-store. We have premium paint-matching services that will make sure you get the exact colour you’re looking for. If you’re using oil-based paint, allow at least 24 hours for the filler to dry. Spakfilla is water-based so it's easy to wash off your hands and tools, as well as clean up any excess.
Tape and apply the base coat
Now that your patch is in place, cover the seams around it with joint tape. Before applying your base coat, use a trowel to lightly score the wall around the edges of the patch. This will help the base coat adhere better.
Apply a base coat or rapid patch
Apply a base coat or rapid patch compound over the taped seams, smoothing it out with a trowel. Once the first coat is dry, scrape back any high spots with your trowel and apply a second coat. Make sure the tape is fully covered and not visible.
Apply a second coat
Once the first coat is dry, scrape back any high spots with your trowel and apply a second coat. Make sure the tape is fully covered and not visible. After the second coat dries, give the area another scrape to remove imperfections, and then use a putty knife to apply the top coat. Take care to blend the top coat seamlessly with the surrounding wall for a smooth finish.
Sand, prime and paint
Once the top coat is completely dry, use medium-grit sandpaper (180 grit) to smooth out any remaining bumps or uneven spots. Follow up with a finer grit sandpaper (240 grit or higher) for a perfectly smooth finish. Wipe the area down with a microfibre cloth to remove any dust before painting. Next, apply a coat of primer over the patched area. Primer helps the paint adhere better and ensures a uniform finish. Once the primer is dry, paint the patch with the same colour as the rest of the wall. Depending on your wall colour and paint type, you may need to apply two or more coats for even coverage. Allow each coat to dry completely before applying the next.
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Health & Safety
Please make sure you use all equipment appropriately and safely when following the advice in these D.I.Y. videos. You need to be familiar with how to use equipment safely and follow the instructions that came with the equipment. If you are unsure, you may feel it is safest to consult an expert, such as the manufacturer or an expert Bunnings Team Member.
Grave health hazards are linked to asbestos, which may be in homes built up to 1990. Health hazards may result from exposure to lead-based paints in older materials and copper chromium arsenic (CCA) treated timber. For information on the dangers of asbestos, lead-based paint and CCA treated timber and tips for dealing with these materials contact your local council's Environmental Health Officer.
Please make sure you use all equipment appropriately and safely when following the advice in these D.I.Y. videos. You need to be familiar with how to use equipment safely and follow the instructions that came with the equipment. If you are unsure, you may feel it is safest to consult an expert, such as the manufacturer or an expert Bunnings Team Member.
Grave health hazards are linked to asbestos, which may be in homes built up to 1990. Health hazards may result from exposure to lead-based paints in older materials and copper chromium arsenic (CCA) treated timber. For information on the dangers of asbestos, lead-based paint and CCA treated timber and tips for dealing with these materials contact your local council's Environmental Health Officer.