Skip to main content
Bunnings

Sign in or sign up

No Bunnings account? Sign up
PowerPass customer?
Visit the dedicated trade website
Lowest Price Policy^
+40,000 Products

How to assemble and install a base cabinet

The image shows a nearly completed kitchen island bench cabinetry in a kitchen under construction.

Overview

Installing a base cabinet yourself is a straightforward D.I.Y. project that can refresh your kitchen, laundry or workspace. This guide takes you through the process of how to install base cabinets from flatpack to finished, ensuring a secure and polished result. Whether you're tackling one cabinet or a full run, these steps will help you achieve a professional-looking installation.

Safety tip: Always wear the appropriate safety equipment (safety glasses, gloves, ear muffs and a mask, for example) and always follow the instructions for the product or equipment. 

Steps

1Fix the back panel to the base

Start by applying a small bead of exterior wood glue along the edge of the base panel where it will meet the back panel. Position the back panel so that its edges align cleanly with the base. Once in place, secure it using the supplied screws. This forms the backbone of the base cabinet and sets the foundation for the rest of the assembly.
A person is using a power drill to fix the back panel to the base using the screws.

2Attach the side panels

Next, apply exterior wood glue along the base and along the edges where the side panels will sit. Position each side panel carefully and screw them into place through the pre-drilled holes. This step locks the cabinet structure together, helping to keep everything square and rigid. A well-aligned cabinet frame is crucial for ensuring your cabinet sits level during installation.
A person is using a power drill to attach the side panels in place through the pre-drilled holes.

3Fit the support rail

If your cabinet comes with a support rail, install it now. The support rail adds structural integrity to the cabinet and plays an important role in helping it maintain shape over time. It also provides additional support for the benchtop, ensuring the finished setup is both strong and long-lasting.
A person is using a power drill to attach a support rail that helps keep the cabinet strong and hold its shape over time

4Attach the adjustable feet

With the main cabinet box assembled, attach the adjustable feet using the pre-drilled holes underneath the base. Set each foot to a height of 145mm. These feet are essential for leveling your cabinet, particularly on floors that aren’t perfectly flat. Maintaining this height is also important as it aligns with standard kicker board dimensions used in most cabinetry setups.
A person is using a power drill to attach adjustable feet to the bottom of a base cabinet.

5Position and level the cabinet

Move the cabinet into position where it will be installed. Before fixing anything in place, check whether your floor is level using a spirit level. If your flooring is uneven, always begin at the lowest point of the floor as this avoids large gaps beneath your kicker board at the other end of the run. Adjust the cabinet feet as needed to ensure the top sits level, but keep in mind not to exceed the 145mm height. If any section goes above that, lower the height on surrounding cabinets to maintain a consistent line across the whole run.
A person is using a spirit level to check that the base cabinets are evenly aligned on the floor.

6Join multiple cabinets

If you're installing a run of cabinets, line up the fronts so they are flush and even. Use clamps to hold them together while you work. Then, pre-drill through the side panels of each adjoining cabinet and secure them together with screws. At the end of your cabinet run, add an end panel. This creates a tidy and finished appearance, neatly covering the exposed side of the final cabinet.
A person is using a power drill to join two cabinet frames together while clamps hold them in place for alignment.

7Make cutouts for plumbing or cabling

If your installation requires access for pipes, power points or cabling, mark and measure where you need to make openings. Using a hole saw, drill halfway through from the inside of the cabinet first. Then complete the hole by drilling from the outside. This technique helps prevent splintering on both surfaces and leaves a clean edge.
The image shows the back panel of a cabinet with holes for plumbing and cabling.

8Fix the cabinet to the wall

With your cabinet positioned and levelled, the next step in attaching the base cabinet is to find the secure points in your wall where you’ll attach it. Use a stud finder to carefully locate the timber studs behind the wall surface. Mark these points clearly, as fixing into studs is essential for long-term stability and safety.

Once the stud positions are marked, use a drill or driver to secure the cabinet directly into the studs using a minimum of 65mm timber screws. Fixing the cabinet to these solid anchor points ensures it can support the weight of the benchtop, contents and any daily use without shifting or loosening over time.

A person is using a power drill to attach a base cabinet panel to the wall.

9Secure the mounting clips

Begin by separating the hinge arms from the mounting plates in your hinge kit. Most hinge arms can be released by pressing a tab at the end of the mechanism. Once separated, position the mounting plates inside the cabinet, aligning the elongated holes with the pre-drilled ones. Some mounting plates come with small plastic lugs to help hold them in place. Make sure the round holes in the plate are facing the front of the cabinet. Then secure each plate using 14mm screws, fixing them firmly into the cabinet wall.
A person is using a power drill to separate the hinge arms from the mounting clip.

10Attach the door

With the mounting clips in place, align each door so the hinge arms line up with the mounted plates. Press the hinge arms into position until you hear a distinct click—this confirms they are securely locked in. Check the doors for smooth movement, making any necessary adjustments to ensure they open, close and sit evenly across your cabinetry.
A person is attaching a cabinet door to the frame by connecting the hinge into the mounting plate.

11Install the internal shelf

To finish the internal setup, place the shelf support brackets into the pre-drilled holes at your desired height inside the cabinet. Once these are in position, rest the adjustable shelf on top of the supports. This gives you added storage flexibility and helps maximise the cabinet’s functionality.
A Bunnings Team Member is installing the inner shelf inside the cabinet.

12Add the final end panel

After installing all your cabinets, complete the setup by attaching an end panel to the outer side of the last cabinet. This gives the entire installation a clean and cohesive look, hiding exposed edges and contributing to a polished, professional finish.
The image shows a completed base cabinet with installed doors, drawers, and the final end panel in place

13Now that you’ve installed a base cabinet

Health & Safety

Asbestos, lead-based paints and copper chromium arsenic (CCA) treated timber are health hazards you need to look out for when renovating older homes. These substances can easily be disturbed when renovating and exposure to them can cause a range of life-threatening diseases and conditions including cancer. For information on the dangers of asbestos, lead-based paint and CCA treated timber and tips for dealing with these materials contact your local council's Environmental Health Officer or visit our Health & Safety page.

When following our advice in our D.I.Y. videos, make sure you use all equipment, including PPE, safely by following the manufacturer’s instructions. Check that the equipment is suitable for the task and that PPE fits properly. If you are unsure, hire an expert to do the job or talk to a Bunnings Team Member.