Every dog should have its own bed. This one is easy to make, affordable, comfortable, and a great way to pay back your furry friend's loyalty. It also includes a sliding feeding station, that you can make separately.
Apply wood glue to two adjoining pieces of timber for the base frame. Join them together and clamp them in place. Repeat this process to make the rest of the base frame. Once the frame is clamped, gently tap the panels into place using a hammer to make the corners square. Use a nail gun to fix three nails into each join.
2Attach the beading
The beading is what the formply will sit on. To attach it, apply glue along the length of the beading. Place the beading 50mm down from the top of the frame. Use a combination square to ensure the beading remains level on each of the four sides. Fix off the beading with a nail gun. Then, gently lower the form ply base into the frame. It should fit snugly.
3Cut out the opening for the feeding station
To cut out the opening for the feeding station, use a 10mm drill bit to create access points at each of the two top corners for the jigsaw blade. You will need to make the feeding station separately.
4Cut the timber
To make this project easier we've had our timber cut to manageable lengths at our local Bunnings Warehouse. Here's our cutting list:
185mm x 19mm Tasmanian oak:
780mm x 2
1000mm x 2
90mm x 19mm x 1.8m Tasmanian oak:
960mm x 19mm x 19mm x 2
710mm x 19mm x 19mm x 2
1800mm x 1200mm x 17mm formply:
960mm x 740mm x 17mm
5Measure and mark for the feeding station
Measure and mark the centre point on the front panel of the Tasmanian oak. For the opening to be 640mm, measure 320mm from either side of the centre mark. Then, measure up to the desired height, in this case 120mm to allow for a dog bowl or a dog feeding station to fit.
6Measure, mark and cut the timber
Make four 45-degree mitre cuts on all four pieces of Tasmanian oak. Repeat the process at the other end of the piece of timber to the size you want the box frame to be. Measure and mark the three other pieces of timber at the length you want. Then, make a second 45-degree mitre cut on each board.
7Putty and sand
Putty up any gaps and holes in your dog bed. Once it's dry, use an orbital sander with a 120 grit disc to smooth the putty-filled holes. Make sure to wipe away any dust.
8Sand the front panel
Remove any rough edges on the front panel by sanding the freshly cut opening, using an orbital sander and a 120-grit sanding disc.
9Varnish the bed
To waterproof the dog bed, apply a coat of clear varnish on the frame. Then, leave it to dry.
Once the bed is dry, lay a mattress on top of the form ply and there you have it, a comfy dog bed. Combined with the built-in feeding station, it's sure to set tails wagging.
Please make sure you use all equipment appropriately and safely when following the advice in these D.I.Y. videos. You need to be familiar with how to use equipment safely and follow the instructions that came with the equipment. If you are unsure, you may feel it is safest to consult an expert, such as the manufacturer or an expert Bunnings Team Member.
Grave health hazards are linked to asbestos, which may be in homes built up to 1990. Health hazards may result from exposure to lead-based paints in older materials and copper chromium arsenic (CCA) treated timber. For information on the dangers of asbestos, lead-based paint and CCA treated timber and tips for dealing with these materials contact your local council's Environmental Health Officer. You can also use a simple test kit from Bunnings to indicate the presence of lead-based paint.