Three clever space-saving clotheslines
To cut the side pieces, mark halfway along the 43mm dowel, cutting with a handsaw for two equal lengths of 600mm. To cut the rails, mark the 25mm dowel lengths in half and cut with a handsaw to make five 2m lengths (the sixth length is a spare). Alternatively, have the dowel cut in store but double-check the lengths are exact. Sand all dowel with 180-grit abrasive paper. Tip: To sand, wrap a piece of sandpaper once around the dowel, hold gently with one hand and push the dowel back and forth through the sandpaper with the other hand.
Position one side piece on the 600mm pine batten, securing with two saddle clips and screws. Measure and mark the dowel at 50mm, 125mm, 300mm, 425mm and 550mm. Use a 2mm bit to drill 20mm-deep holes at each mark. Repeat with remaining side piece, leaving it secured in the saddle clips. Sand over the holes. Tip: Check the drill is set to ‘drilling' when using drill bits and ‘driving' when using a driver for screws – you could have two drills set up to avoid changing the bits and settings.
Clamp a 25mm dowel rail over the work surface edge. Mark 50mm from the end, drill through with a 2mm bit. Change to an 8G countersink bit and drill to taper the hole so the screw head sits below the surface. Repeat for remaining rails and sand over the holes.
Working on one rail at a time, drive a 50mm screw through the hole so the tip protrudes about 3mm, position the screw into the hole of the side piece and secure. Repeat with the remaining rails.
Position the remaining side piece under the rails so they are straight and evenly spaced. Mark each of the rails 50mm from the ends. Hold firmly and drill through each rail and 20mm into the side piece with a 2mm bit. Use the countersinking bit to taper the holes, sand smooth, then secure from the top with 50mm screws.
Use a combination square to mark the centres of the two side piece ends, then use a 5mm bit to drill 40mm-deep holes. Wipe the rack with a clean cloth and apply a coat of varnish using a synthetic paintbrush. When dry, lightly sand rails with 240-grit abrasive paper (avoid the screws) then wipe down and apply another coat of varnish. Leave to dry.
To attach the straps, mark 25mm from the ends and drill through with a 5mm bit. Place an eyelet into the hole, position it against the end of a side piece and secure into the pre-drilled hole with a 40mm screw. Repeat with the other ends. Use a utility knife to round the corners, then attach a quick-link triangle on each strap.
Install ceiling hooks 1100mm apart, then hang the pulleys off these hooks. Thread about 5m of para cord through the double pulley first, then the single pulley and down to the quick-link. Tie off using a hangman's knot. Thread a second length of para cord about 9m through the double pulley only and tie off onto the other quick-link. Tie both ends of cord together and secure to a cleat on the wall. Note: The length of rope used depends on the height of your ceiling and how low you want your rack to hang.
Safety tips: Before drilling into walls or ceiling, use a studfinder to check for wiring and pipework. Turn off the power while working. Secure the ceiling hooks into a stable joist or rafter and leave a minimum clearance of 350mm to raise and lower the rack.
Photography: James Moffatt