How to make a D.I.Y. shoe storage rack

To make this project easier, we had the timber pre-cut at Bunnings.

290mm x 45mm hardwood:

• 600mm x 1
• 800mm x 1
• 1000mm x 1
• 1200mm x 1

90mm x 19mm Tasmanian oak:

• 330mm x 85mm x 19mm x 1

42mm x 19mm Tasmanian oak:

• 1760mm x 4
• 400mm x 8

Make a 16-degree mitre cut with the drop saw at the end of one of the legs. Measure and mark 1760mm from long end to short end, then make a 16-degree mitre cut on this end of the leg as well. Repeat the process for the three other legs.

Lay the timber out as it will sit when the A-frames are together. Clamp the legs together and measure for the shelf supports. Ours measured 250mm from the top, then spaced in 430mm increments to the final shelf. Pre-drill with the 4mm bit, then lay out the two pieces of 1760mm so they are parallel. Put the shelf supports into position so it looks like a ladder. Clamp the timber together. Pre-drill with the 4mm bit, countersink and then secure the shelves with the 50mm timber screws. Repeat the process for both sides.

Our 95mm capping piece was ripped to 85mm and bevelled with a 16-degree bevel on both sides. To do this, lay both sides of the frame together. Measure the distance between the two sides for the front and back width of the capping piece. Transfer these measurements to the timber. We ripped our timber to 85mm. Then measure and cut the timber to length for the sides. We gave ours a 16-degree cut at each end. To attach the capping, clamp it in place, pre-drill with the 4mm bit, countersink and screw into place with the 50mm screws.

Apply putty to cover up all of the screw holes and gaps. When it's dry, sand it smooth. Sand the hardwood shelves to round off any corners and edges. Start with 180 grit sandpaper and graduate to 240 for the final finish. Wipe away any sawdust.

We painted our frame with a clear varnish to seal the timber, protect it, and bring out the natural wood grain. Apply as many coats as you need, letting it dry and lightly sanding between coats.