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A completed wooden coat rack in a white room


This stylish wooden coat rack is the perfect place to hang your jackets, scarves and other items out of the way. It's easy to make and its tree-like design is sure to impress in any room.


1Join the timber for the base

To create the base for your coat rack, apply glue along one of the long edges of the 270mm hardwood timber. Then join the two pieces together, making sure the end and corners are flush. Clamp them together and then let it dry.

Two pieces of wood being glued together by a Bunnings team member

2Join the timber for the stand

Run some glue along the face of one of the 1800mm Tasmanian oak hardwood lengths. Then stick and clamp the two 1800mm lengths together, making sure the edges are flush.

Glue being applied to the surface of a piece of wood, with the purpose of securing it to another piece of wood

3Remove the dried glue

After the glue has dried on the stand and the base, use a wide, sharp chisel to remove any dried glue from the wood.

Dried glue being chiselled away from the join between two pieces of wood

4Measure and mark the base

Next you'll need to square up the base. Measure and mark up making sure you keep the glued pieces in the centre of the base for a great look. Our base measured 280mm x 280mm.

A square rule being used to measure the coat rack base for cutting

5Cut the base

Clamp the base to the workbench and use the circular saw to cut it where you've marked.

A Bunnings team member using a power saw to cut the coat rack base to size

6Mark out the centre of the base

To find the centre of the base that you've cut, use a T-square and pencil and make a mark. From that, draw a small square around the centre and mark an X in each corner of this square.

Pencil markings on the wooden coat rack base, showing where the centre of the base is and four points for anchoring screws

7Drill holes through the base

Drill four holes where you've marked in the base with an X using a 5mm drill bit. This is where you will attach the base to the stand.

Holes being cut into the coat rack base for anchoring screws

8Measure and mark the stand

We want our stand to be 1755mm high. Measure and mark this length onto your glued timber stand.

Two pieces of timber underneath a mitre saw being marked for cutting with a pencil and tape measure

9Cut the stand to size

With your timber clamped down, trim the end of the stand with a drop saw to size.

The post of a wooden coat rack being cut to size by a Bunnings staff member with a mitre saw

10Measure and mark for the dowel holes

For our stand, we wanted to create a tree look with three staggered dowel lengths on each face. From the top of each face, we marked at;

Face 1: 50mm, 250mm, 450mm

Face 2: 100mm, 200mm, 300mm

Face 3: 150mm, 350mm, 550mm

Face 4: 200mm, 400mm, 600mm

Square off a line at each mark across the timber and then mark a 45-degree angle on the side.

The post of a wooden coat rack being measured for cutting with a pencil and tape measure

11Pre-drill the dowel holes

Pre-drill all of the holes for the dowel at the 45-degree angle with the 5mm drill bit. This will act as a guide for the spade bit.

A coat rack post being drilled into as a guiding point for a bore spade to later create holes for coat hooks

12Drill the holes for the dowel

Use the 35mm spade bit to drill the holes for the dowel. Start drilling at 90 degrees, then as the blade starts cutting at its full width, start to tilt the drill until you're at 45 degrees. Drill the holes to a depth of around 50mm.

A power drill with a bore spade drill bit being used to drill a hole in two pieces of timber yb a Bunnings team member

13Fill in any cracks

Use rapid fill to fill in any cracks or imperfections on the stand. Let it dry then sand the stand back with the orbital sander.

A Bunnings team member sanding down the upright of a wooden coat rack

14Paint the stand

We painted our stand black to highlight the natural colour of the dowel, but you can choose whatever colour you like. Then let the paint dry.

Two lengths of timber being painted black by a Bunnings team member

15Pre-drill holes in the bottom of the stand

Line the base up with the bottom of the stand so that it's centred. Then with the 5mm drill bit, lightly drill through the holes you've made in the base into the bottom of the stand for your marker points. Remove the base and drill further into the stand to make your holes.

Screws being positioned at the base of the wooden coat rack

16Attach the base to the stand

Insert the batten screws through the drilled holes in the base. Line the screws up with the pre-drilled holes in the stand and screw the base to the stand with 100mm batten screws.

Four long screws being drilled into the base of a wooden coat rack by a Bunnings team member with a power drill

17Measure and mark for the dowel

For your coat hooks, measure and mark out on your dowel 4 x 300mm lengths, 4 x 200mm lengths and 4 x 100mm lengths.

A piece of dowel being marked for cutting with a pencil and tape measure

18Cut the dowel

Use the drop saw to cut the dowel where you've marked. Cut one end at 90 degrees and mitre the other end at 45 degrees.

A mitre saw being used to cut a piece of dowel by a Bunnings team member

19Sand the dowel

Use 180 grit sandpaper to lightly sand the rough edges of each piece of dowel.

A piece of dowel cut at an angle being sanded

20Assemble the coat rack

Apply PVA glue to the 90-degree ends of the dowel and insert them into the drilled holes. We've fitted the long dowels at the top and the shortest ones closer to the bottom to give it the tree design. 
Coat hooks being fitted into the upright post of a coat rack

21Place and dress your coat rack

Find a location for your coat rack and you're finished. Now it's time to dress it with coats, scarves and clean up around your home. 

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Health & Safety

Please make sure you use all equipment appropriately and safely when following the advice in these D.I.Y. videos. You need to be familiar with how to use equipment safely and follow the instructions that came with the equipment. If you are unsure, you may feel it is safest to consult an expert, such as the manufacturer or an expert Bunnings Team Member.

Grave health hazards are linked to asbestos, which may be in homes built up to 1990. Health hazards may result from exposure to lead-based paints in older materials and copper chromium arsenic (CCA) treated timber. For information on the dangers of asbestos, lead-based paint and CCA treated timber and tips for dealing with these materials contact your local council's Environmental Health Officer. You can also use a simple test kit from Bunnings to indicate the presence of lead-based paint.