Ozito PXC 18V Buffer Polisher - Skin Only
To make this D.I.Y. project even easier you can have the timber pre-cut to size at your local Bunnings. First, we had our 42mm x 19mm pine cut to:
Large triangular frame
Small triangular frame
We then cut our 240mm x 45mm Tasmanian Oak to:
Set the mitre saw to 10 degrees. Take one of the 2030mm lengths of timber and make a mitre cut at the end. Measure and mark the desired length of the A-frame on the timber. Make another mitre cut, making sure it's a mirror image of the first. Repeat this for the three other lengths of timber that make up the frame.
Once you've cut the timber for the frames, it's time to join them. Take the two longer pieces and a 700mm piece and lay them out to form a triangle. Clamp the timber to the workbench. Use the 3mm drill bit to pre-drill holes, then glue and screw into place using the 50mm screws. Repeat this process to make the other A-frame.
To attach the braces, take a piece of the 330mm timber and place it at the apex of the triangle. Pre-drill, glue and screw the timber to the top of the triangle. Then attach another two 245mm pieces at the base following the same process. Pre-drill using the 3mm drill bit, glue and screw with the 50mm screws.
Put one A-frame on top of the other. Use a timber offcut to help clamp the brace into place. Pre-drill with the 3mm drill bit before securing using glue and your 50mm screws in each corner of the A-frame.
Repeat previous steps to make the second, smaller A-frame using the 1750mm lengths of timber.
Once you've made two A-frames for the bookshelf, measure and mark the position of the shelf supports. You can put these wherever you like, but make sure the positions correspond with both frames so the shelves sit straight.The easiest way to do this is to use the inverted small triangle and place a straight edge across the top to establish where the supports should go for the larger triangle. Repeat the process for each support along the length of the A-frame. For the small A-frame, our first shelf measured 510mm from the base or apex. The next shelf measured 610mm from the bottom of the first shelf to the bottom of the second. From the bottom of the second shelf to the top of the frame measured 660mm.
The supports are attached to the outside of the frame by pre-drilling with the 3mm drill bit, gluing and screwing in 30mm screws. We attached two supports to the smaller A-frame, the top of the frame formed a shelf support in its own right. For the larger A-frame we attached three shelf supports to the outer frame.
Putty up any screw holes and gaps. Leave to dry and give a light sand with 120 grit sandpaper.
You can paint the A-frames any colour you like. We used black to give it an industrial look. When using the spray paint wear a mask and do it in a well ventilated room. Use smooth, even sprays to ensure a seamless finish.
The timber for the shelves has been pre-cut at Bunnings but give it a light sanding with the 120 grit sandpaper and finish off with the 240 grit sandpaper. Wipe away any dust.
We used a Carnauba wax to bring out the grain and help protect the hardwood. Use a rag to apply the wax all over the shelves.
Once the shelves are waxed and dry, slide them into the bookshelf. You'll need an extra pair of hands to hold the inverted A-frame in place while the shelves are placed on the supports. You can secure with screws if you want a sturdier bookshelf.
Now it's time to step back and enjoy your new industrial wooden bookshelf. Why not use it to display your favourite plants and mementos or store books and folders so they're out of the way.