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DIY greenhouse full of plants.

Overview

A greenhouse gives your plants every chance to thrive while protecting them from harsh weather.

Steps

1Pre-cut the timber to size

To make this project easier, you can get all of your timber pre-cut at your local Bunnings. A good tip is to group and label the timber lengths together for each side so you know where it will be used. You can make your greenhouse any size you like, here's the cutting list we used:

200mm x 50mm pine:

  • 1500mm x 2
  • 1200mm x 2

70mm x 35mm pine:

  • 1600mm x 7
  • 1500mm x 2
  • 1200mm x 6
  • 1150mm x 11
  • 1140mm x 2
  • 1070mm x 1
  • 670mm x 1
  • 315mm x 3
  • 1030mm x 4

1500mm x 90mm treated pine decking boards x 9 (floorboards)

1600mm x 70mm x 45mm treated pine x 1 (roof batten)

1600mm x 70mm x 35mm treated pine x 1 (roof batten)

1600mm x 50mm x 25mm rough header x 1 (roof batten)

Various pieces and sizes of timber lying on the ground.

2Make the floor frame

Take the four 1600mm x 1200mm hardwood sleepers and make a rectangle with them. Make sure the edges are flush and then pre-drill holes with the 5mm drill bit. Fix the frame together with 125mm bugle screws.

Person lining up two thick pieces of timber together in an L-shape.

3Attach the subfloor

Place the 1500mm x 50mm x 2 lengths and 1200mm x 50mm x 2 lengths for the subfloor on the inside of the floor frame. Then attach them to the floor frame with the fixing gun. You should also add two joists an equal distance apart and use the nail gun to secure them down for extra support.

Person lying small timber frame inside larger timber frame.

4Attach the caster wheels

Turn the frame over. Use the 125mm bugle screws to attach the caster wheels in each corner of the frame. There's no need to pre-drill, just screw them straight in. A good tip is to put the two casters with stoppers on diagonal corners.
Castor wheel.

5Attach the flooring

Secure the first piece of timber flooring rib side down and flush with the edge. Then use a timber offcut as a spacer and lay the next length down. Secure it with the fixing gun, and repeat this process until you've finished the floor. These gaps in the floor will help you with drainage.
Person screwing piece of timber to greenhouse frame.

6Build the front frame

Make a rectangular frame with the 2 x 1600mm lengths and 2 x 1150mm lengths of timber. Join them together with the framing gun. 

7Measure for the studs

Once you've worked out how big you want the greenhouse door to be, measure and mark where the studs will go. Remember to take into account the width of the third stud to attach the door hinge to.

Person measuring piece of timber and marking it up with pencil and tape measure.

8Secure the studs

Use the fixing gun to secure the three studs.

Person drilling greenhouse frame pieces together.

9Make the door

Lay out the frame for the door with the 2 x 670mm lengths, 2 x 1140mm lengths, 1 x 1070mm length for the centre and 3 x 315mm lengths for the noggins. Before fixing with a framing gun, be sure the timber is flush to the frame.

One side of greenhouse frame lying on its side on the table.

10Build the back and side frames

Now it's time to repeat the previous steps to build the back and side frames for the greenhouse. Note that you won't have to include the door in the frames.

One side of greenhouse frame lying on its side on the table.

11Attach the plastic

Now that you've made your frames it's time to wrap them in plastic. Make the plastic as tight as possible and fix with a hammer and the foil fixers. Trim any excess plastic with a utility knife. A good tip is to attach the fixers to the inside of the frame so that the finished greenhouse looks neat. You'll need to repeat this process for each of the four frames.

Person hammering nails into greenhouse frame.

12Attach the hinges and bolt to the door

Screw the hinges into the side studs. You'll find the screws for this in the pack with the 200mm hinges. Then attach the bolt. Screw the bracket into the noggin and the pad bolt to the door. 

Person screwing door hinge to one side of greenhouse frame.

13Attach the frames to the base

You'll need someone to help you with this step. Attach the sides, back and front to the base frame and to each other using the 125mm bugle screws. Make sure all of the frames are flush with the edges of the base and the other frames before securing.

 

Two people holding one side of greenhouse frame up, ready to put it together with the other sides.

14Attach the roof battens

You'll need a slight fall on the roof, so attach the timber battens with different widths in descending order. Starting at the front, secure the 70mm x 45mm x 1600mm batten, then the 70mm x 35mm x 1600mm batten and then the 50mm x 25mm rough header.

Person drilling piece of timber into greenhouse frame.

15Measure and mark for your polycarbonate

Measure the length of the roof for the greenhouse. Allow a little extra overhang at the front and back for runoff. Transfer these measurements onto the polycarbonate. Mark the line with masking tape because this helps ensure a clean, straight cut.

Person measuring and marking polycarbonate material.

16Cut the polycarbonate roof

Clamp the polycarbonate to the top of the greenhouse to make sure it doesn't move so you get a smooth, straight cut. When cutting, use the jigsaw with a metal blade on the medium setting, and don't forget to wear the appropriate safety gear when cutting.

Person sawing through polycarbonate material.

17Attach the roof

Attach the polycarbonate roofing to the greenhouse using roof screws. You should screw them into every second crest of the corrugate for a secure roof. 

Person drilling through polycarbonate material that is being used a greenhouse roof.

18Position and fill your greenhouse

Now all you have to do is roll your greenery into the right location and fill it with your favourite plants.
Greenhouse with lots of luscious plants inside.

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Health & Safety

Please make sure you use all equipment appropriately and safely when following the advice in these D.I.Y. videos. You need to be familiar with how to use equipment safely and follow the instructions that came with the equipment. If you are unsure, you may feel it is safest to consult an expert, such as the manufacturer or an expert Bunnings Team Member.

Grave health hazards are linked to asbestos, which may be in homes built up to 1990. Health hazards may result from exposure to lead-based paints in older materials and copper chromium arsenic (CCA) treated timber. For information on the dangers of asbestos, lead-based paint and CCA treated timber and tips for dealing with these materials contact your local council's Environmental Health Officer. You can also use a simple test kit from Bunnings to indicate the presence of lead-based paint.