To make this D.I.Y. project even easier, you can have your timber pre-cut at your local Bunnings.
Cut the 90mm x 90mm treated pine into the following lengths:
2400mm x 1 (for the spine)
1500mm x 2 (for the uprights)
1500mm x 2 (for the feet)
Cut the 90mm x 45mm treated pine into the following lengths:
1150mm x 4 (for the supports)
2Cut the mitre for the uprights
Set the mitre saw to 22.5 degrees. Then, use this to cut one end of each upright as close to the edge as possible.
3Pre-drill the holes for the upright
Because the upright timber is heavy, you'll need someone to help you with this step. Hold the timber upright so that it's flush with the base of the stand. Use the 6mm drill bit to pre-drill two holes through the upright and into the base.
4Attach the uprights
Use the drill and 100mm bugle screws to attach the uprights to the base. Repeat steps 3 and 4 to attach the other upright.
5Clamp and mark the support
Place the supports so that their 45-degree cut is flush with the floor. Clamp them in place. Use the pencil to mark the overhang of the timber.
6Cut the support
Set the saw to match the angle of the cut you need to make. Cut the timber to size. Then, repeat steps 5 and 6 to cut the other supports to size.
7Pre-drill the holes for the support
Clamp the supports back in place. Use the drill and 10mm drill bit to pre-drill two holes in both the top and bottom of the support and through the base.
8Secure the support
Use the hammer to tap the 200mm dome head coach bolts through the base and supports. Place the nut on the end of the bolt and tighten with a spanner or socket wrench. Repeat this for all three holes in the support. And repeat steps 7 and 8 to attach the other support.
9Measure and mark the centre of the base struts
Place the base struts underneath the support frame. Use the tape measure to centre both struts.
10Pre-drill holes to attach the base struts
Use the drill and 10mm drill bit to pre-drill the holes to attach the base struts. Make sure you pre-drill through the 1500mm timber as well as the frame. To do this, remove the timber and pre-drill.
11Attach the base struts
Turn the base strut over and use the hammer to insert the bolts so they are flush to the surface. Lift your frame onto the bolts and use a mallet or hammer to position it snugly. Once the frame is on, secure it using washers and nuts. Tighten with a socket wrench. Repeat this to attach the other strut.
12Cut the bolts
Use the angle grinder to cut the bolts, so they're flush with the nuts.
13Measure and mark for the hammock's fixings
Measure and mark on the uprights for the hooks to hold the hammock.
14drill the holes for the fixings
Use the drill and 10mm drill bit to drill the holes in the uprights for the hooks to attach the hammock to.
15Attach the fixings
Push the hook though the hole in the upright. Attach the nut to the end and tighten it. Repeat this to attach the other hook.
16Paint the hammock stand
You can leave the wood unpainted but we've decided to add a splash of colour to ours. You may need to apply 2 coats of paint. Let the paint dry.
17Lie back and relax
Now you can take it outside, lie back and enjoy all your hard work.
Health & Safety
Please make sure you use all equipment appropriately and safely when following the advice in these D.I.Y. videos. You need to be familiar with how to use equipment safely and follow the instructions that came with the equipment. If you are unsure, you may feel it is safest to consult an expert, such as the manufacturer or an expert Bunnings Team Member.
Grave health hazards are linked to asbestos, which may be in homes built up to 1990. Health hazards may result from exposure to lead-based paints in older materials and copper chromium arsenic (CCA) treated timber. For information on the dangers of asbestos, lead-based paint and CCA treated timber and tips for dealing with these materials contact your local council's Environmental Health Officer. You can also use a simple test kit from Bunnings to indicate the presence of lead-based paint.