Bar stools are a great addition to any kitchen or outdoor living area. With just a few pieces of dowel and some plywood, you can make them yourself and completely transform the look and function of a space.
The first step is to cut all the timber. Here's our cut list for this project:
300mm diameter circle (seat)
35mm F17 Tasmanian oak dowel
700mm x 4 (legs)
25mm F17 Tasmanian oak dowel
230mm x 2 (supports)
240mm x 2 (supports)
2Measure and mark for the diameter of the stool top
Clamp the ply to the workbench. Measure and mark the ply to find the centre point. We're making our bar stool seat 300mm in diameter. Drill a hole in the centre to attach the router arm. Set the router arm to 150mm.
3Cut out the stool top
Screw the router arm into the centre point. Place timber offcuts under the ply to allow enough room to make the cut. Clamp the ply in place so that it can't move. Cut out the top of the bar stool with the router.
4Cut the dowel
Use the mitre saw to cut the dowel to a manageable length.
5Tape the legs together
Lay the 4 legs on the workbench and use masking tape to secure them.
6Cut the legs
Set the mitre saw to a 15-degree angle. Cut the 4 taped legs near the end.
7Measure and mark for the length of the legs
With the legs still taped together, measure and mark the length of the legs for the bar stool. Ours were 700mm.
8Cut the legs to size
Make sure the mitre saw is set to a 15-degree angle. Cut the 4 legs for the stool to size.
9Measure and mark for the supports
Our first support is 200mm up from the bottom of the legs. Use the set square to measure and mark 200mm up from the bottom of the legs.
10Drill the holes in the dowel
Clamp the 4 pieces of dowel to the workbench. Use the 25mm spade bit to drill the four holes in the dowel.
11Measure and mark for the second supports
Rotate the dowel so that the holes you've drilled face each other. Re-tape the dowel so they don't move. Measure and mark 250mm up from the bottom of the legs.
12Drill the holes for the supports
Clamp the dowel to the workbench. Use the 25mm spade bit to drill the four holes for the second supports. Drill to a depth of about 10mm.
13Measure and mark for the legs in the top of the stool
Find the centre point on the top of the stool and position the four legs an equal distance apart from that point. On a grid, our legs were positioned 50mm and 140mm apart.
14Pre-drill the holes in the top of the stool
Clamp the top of the stool to the workbench. Use the 2.5mm drill bit to pre-drill the holes for the legs to be attached to.
15Apply glue for the supports
Apply the PVA glue into the holes for the supports. Use the 2.5mm drill bit to pre-drill holes to attach the supports.
16Attach the supports
Push the supports into the holes in the legs. You might want to use a rubber mallet to gently tap them into place. Use the drill and 30mm timber screws to attach the supports to the legs. Once both sides of the legs for the stool are complete, join them together with glue and screws
17Attach the seat to the legs
Apply glue to the top of the legs for the stool. Use the drill and the 40mm timber screws to secure the top of the stool to the legs. Screw from the top of the stool, make sure the tip is just poking out of the base, before screwing into the legs.
18Putty any holes
Putty any holes with wood putty. Leave it to dry. Sand the stool with some 120-grit sandpaper. Hand sand the dowel legs and wipe away any dust.
19Paint the stool
You can choose whatever colour paint you want, depending on the look you're going for, we chose black. Paint your stool in a well ventilated room and then let it dry.
20Put the stool in place
And there you have it, a fantastic looking bar stool that you made yourself. Make as many as you need and find a place for them at the kitchen bench, a bar or outdoor entertaining area.
Please make sure you use all equipment appropriately and safely when following the advice in these D.I.Y. videos. You need to be familiar with how to use equipment safely and follow the instructions that came with the equipment. If you are unsure, you may feel it is safest to consult an expert, such as the manufacturer or an expert Bunnings Team Member.
Grave health hazards are linked to asbestos, which may be in homes built up to 1990. Health hazards may result from exposure to lead-based paints in older materials and copper chromium arsenic (CCA) treated timber. For information on the dangers of asbestos, lead-based paint and CCA treated timber and tips for dealing with these materials contact your local council's Environmental Health Officer. You can also use a simple test kit from Bunnings to indicate the presence of lead-based paint.