How to build a panelled garden tool rack

Use a mitre saw to cut 140mm shiplap pine lining into 13 boards 1200mm long. From lengths of 64mm pine, cut four 1200mm back braces. Set out the boards on a large, flat surface with the V-joint side facing down and the curved edge facing up.

To make the panel, apply adhesive along the tongue of each board, pushing it into the groove of the next board, with the edges flush.

Position the back braces, offset lengthways over the panel. They should be equally spaced about 190mm apart and in from the edges. Use a combination countersinking bit to pre-drill through the braces, securing into each board with adhesive and 30mm galvanised screws.

On the lengths of 20mm corner moulding, mark each side of the panel. Set the mitre saw to 45°, positioning the marks to be on the inside of the mitres, and cutting on the offcut side of the marks to allow for the thickness of the saw blade.

To prevent splitting, position the frame around the panel right-side up, pre-drilling holes with a 2mm bit, 20mm along from the mitres and about 200mm apart. Apply adhesive along the inside, then secure with 30mm galvanised flathead nails.

Smooth all over with 180-grit abrasive paper and wipe with a damp cloth. Apply two coats of paint, leaving to dry after each. Position hooks along the centre of the boards and over the braces, securing with the supplied screws.

• Always wear the recommended safety equipment while using power tools or paint, and follow the instructions for the product and equipment.
• Pre-drilling holes stops screws from slipping off the mark at the beginning of the drive, and helps prevent timber from splitting or cracking.
• Before drilling into walls, use a stud finder to check for wiring and pipework, and turn off the power while working.
• Enlist a second pair of hands to help lift and mount the rack on the wall.

*Timbers vary by state and territory; contact your local store for further information.