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Easy in-store ReturnsHow to make a D.I.Y. modern timber sofa lounge
How to make a D.I.Y. modern timber sofa lounge
Overview
Stylish, modern sofa lounges can be costly. This project repurposes three timber kitchen benchtops to create a fantastic piece of furniture that's perfect for just about any home.
Tools and materials
Tools
- Belt sander
- Builder's square
- Chisel
- Circular saw
- Combination square
- Corner clamps
- Drill press
- Earmuffs
- Hammer
- Impact driver
- 6.5mm drill bit
- 5mm drill bit
- 3.5mm drill bit
- Countersink bit
- Phillips head bit
- Cordless drill
- Drop saw
- Measuring tape or ruler
- Orbital sander
- Paint brush
- Paint stirrer
- Pencil
- Putty knife
- Safety glasses
- Sash clamps
- Straight-edge clamps
- Work gloves
Materials
Steps
Cut the back and base or seat to size
Measure and mark on the tape the seat or base size. Ours measured 1920mm x 600mm. Measure and mark on the tape the size for the back of the sofa. Ours measured 1927mm x 420mm. Use the circular saw to cut these. Before cutting, be sure to allow for the blade.
Cut the rebates
Mark the tape on the timber, which is on the left and right side of the sofa. Also mark with a pencil where to cut the rebates. They need to be mirror images when you're done. Measure and mark the rebates – ours measured 25mm deep and 38mm from the edge for both sides and at a right angle. We used a table saw to cut the rebates for accuracy, but you could also use a circular saw.
Cut the sides and back to size
Next, measure and cut the sides and back with a circular saw. The sides measured 420mm, as did the back.
Cut the timber to a manageable size
To make working with the timber easier, we cut our benchtops to a more manageable size. We measured and marked ours at 680mm lengths and cut it with the drop saw.
Fit the base into place
Lift the base into place onto the created rebates, but you might need someone to help you lift it. To secure, glue, pre-drill with the 5mm bit, then make a pilot hole with the 3.5mm bit and join together with the 65mm timber screws.
Fix the back and the sides together.
Clamp the sides to the back with corner clamps to keep the edges flush and square.
To hide the screws, we're going to use timber plugs, which we'll make later. To accommodate these, pre-drill with a 9.5mm bit, then make a clearance hole with the 5mm bit. Apply glue for extra strength, removing any excess as you go. Make a pilot hole with the 3.5mm bit and then screw together with the 65mm timber screws.
Make the square cuts
Now that the timber is at manageable lengths, it's time to make the square cuts. Start with the sides. Measure and mark where to apply the masking tape, the tape ensures the timber doesn't splinter when it's cut. Now measure and mark for the cut. Ours measured 638mm. We left some room to play with on the sides to accommodate any errors when cutting the rebates. Set the circular saw to make the cut, making sure you allow for the blade. Clamp the timber, then cut it. Repeat the process for the second side.
Make the timber plugs
We're using an offcut of wood to make the timber plugs. First, set up the drill press with a plug cutter. Drill as many plugs as you need. Use a screwdriver to pop the plugs out. Now, align the plugs on top of the screws holes, making sure the timber grain faces the same way. Glue and gently hammer the plugs into place. If you don't have a drill press to make the plugs, you can just putty over the holes.
Putty and sand
Putty up any gaps in between the timber joins and leave to dry. Use the belt sander to sand it. Start with 120-grit for the first sand and graduate to a finer grit as required.
Make and assemble the legs
Our legs are a rectangle shape. Firstly, measure and mark them. Ours measured 580mm x 4 for the long sides and 152mm x 4 for the short sides. Cut them using a drop saw. Use 180-grit sandpaper to sand off any rough edges or branding. To make 1 leg, lay out the 2 longer sides parallel and fit the shorter sides between these. Assemble using butt joins. Measure and mark to drill a clearance hole with the 6.5mm bit, countersink, pilot hole with a 5mm bit. Glue and screw together with the 100mm bugle screws. Wipe away any excess glue. Putty and sand the leg. Repeat for the second leg.
Attach the legs
Measure and mark for the legs. We positioned ours 35mm in from the front and 180mm in from the sides. Remember to stagger and skew your screws, so they don't touch, when attaching both legs to the sofa. Pre-drill a 6.5mm clearance hole and countersink for the depth. Then drill 5mm pilot holes before screwing the 65mm bugle screws into place.
The finishing touches
To finish the sofa, apply a coat of clear varnish to protect the timber and bring out the natural grain. Before applying, wipe any dust off the sofa. Apply as many coats as needed, leaving them to dry in between.
Sit back and relax
Once the varnish is dry, move your lounge sofa into place. Accessorise it with some cushions, pillows and a throw rug for a touch of style. Your guests won't believe you made it yourself.
More D.I.Y. Advice
Health & Safety
Please make sure you use all equipment appropriately and safely when following the advice in these D.I.Y. videos. You need to be familiar with how to use equipment safely and follow the instructions that came with the equipment. If you are unsure, you may feel it is safest to consult an expert, such as the manufacturer or an expert Bunnings Team Member.
Grave health hazards are linked to asbestos, which may be in homes built up to 1990. Health hazards may result from exposure to lead-based paints in older materials and copper chromium arsenic (CCA) treated timber. For information on the dangers of asbestos, lead-based paint and CCA treated timber and tips for dealing with these materials contact your local council's Environmental Health Officer.
Please make sure you use all equipment appropriately and safely when following the advice in these D.I.Y. videos. You need to be familiar with how to use equipment safely and follow the instructions that came with the equipment. If you are unsure, you may feel it is safest to consult an expert, such as the manufacturer or an expert Bunnings Team Member.
Grave health hazards are linked to asbestos, which may be in homes built up to 1990. Health hazards may result from exposure to lead-based paints in older materials and copper chromium arsenic (CCA) treated timber. For information on the dangers of asbestos, lead-based paint and CCA treated timber and tips for dealing with these materials contact your local council's Environmental Health Officer.