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Easy in-store ReturnsD.I.Y. pallet hall table
D.I.Y. pallet hall table
Overview
It's amazing what you can do with a few boards from an old pallet and some timber. You'll love the uniqueness of this wooden hall table. It's really easy to make and its recycled, rustic style will add character to any room in your home.
Tools and materials
Tools
Steps
Make the first angle cut on a leg
Your table will need splayed legs to give it extra stability. To do this, cut the ends off your timber length with the drop saw set at a 5-degree angle. Then mark and measure 700mm along the timber. At your marking, make another cut at the 5-degree angle with your drop saw. You'll need to do this for all four table legs.
Measure and mark the taper for the legs
Turn each timber length over so they're sitting on their 90mm side. At one end measure and mark at 85mm, which is the widest part that will attach to the table, and on the bottom of the length, measure and mark at 50mm. Draw a straight line between these points on each leg.
Cut the legs
With your safety equipment on, use the circular saw to cut the taper on the four legs.
Measure and mark the slats
For this project, we're using timber slats from a pallet as the top of the hall table. Measure and mark the slats between the pallet frame. We used 16 slats, which were 360mm long, and this will be the width of the table.
Cut the slats
Before you start, check that there are no nails in the pallet where you're cutting. Then cut the slats out of the pallet to size with a circular saw.
Lay out the slats
Lay out the slats onto the ply for your table top. The 16 slats we used measured 360mm x 1200mm long. This will also be the dimensions for your table. Once you've laid out the slats on the ply base, mark on the ply where to trim it.
Cut the ply to size
Clamp the ply to the work bench and use the circular saw to cut the ply to size. You might need someone to hold the ply while you cut.
Measure and mark for the legs
Measure and mark the positions of the table legs on the ply. Our four legs were attached 150mm from the end of the inside of the leg and 50mm from the side. Using a level at the base of the splayed leg will help ensure it sits inside the table top and doesn't splay further than the top.
Attach the legs
Pre-drill holes with a 3mm drill bit in the ply to attach the legs. This will make it easier to line up your legs before screwing. Use the 50mm timber screws to attach the legs. Screw from the top of the ply into each leg. To make this step easier, you will need someone to hold the legs while you attach them.
Secure the slats
Before attaching the slats, try mixing and matching the light and dark lengths until you're happy with their pattern. Then make sure you remove them in order, then apply liquid nails to the ply and lay the slats on top in the same order. Use the fixing gun to secure the slats into place.
Trim the edges
Once the slats are attached, it's time to trim the edges to make the table straight. Use a pencil and straight edge to mark a cutting line along both edges and trim them with the circular saw.
Measure and mark for the longer sides
Measure the length of the table. Transfer this measurement onto the timber you are using for the border frame.
Cut the border for the longer sides to size
Set the drop saw at 45 degrees. For both longer sides of the table, mitre one end of each timber length, then measure from short point to short point before cutting the other mitre.
Fix the longer sides to the table
Place the timber for the frame so that it sits as flush as possible to the lowest of the slats. Start at one end and use the fixing gun to attach the frame along the lengths. Make sure the table is kept straight to reduce bowing.
Measure the width of the table
Once both sides are attached, measure and mark the timber for the shorter sides. To do this, measure from short end to long end. Set the drop saw to 45-degrees. Cut them to size and nail them in place.
Measure and mark for the shelf
Adding a shelf to your table will give you some storage space as well as more stability. We're using a laminated hardwood panel for our shelf. At the height that you want the shelf, measure the distance between the legs.
Cut the shelf to size
For our shelf, it will need mitred edges to match the splayed legs. Rip and cut the hardwood to your measurements using a circular saw. Then cut the mitres using the drop saw.
Attach the shelf
Use the 3mm drill bit to pre-drill the holes to secure the shelf. Then use 65mm screws to secure the shelf. A good tip is to use timber off-cuts and clamp them to the legs to make sure the shelf is level.
Putty up any holes
Use some putty and a putty knife to fill any holes or cracks in the table. Let the putty dry.
Sand the table
For a great finish for your table, you'll need to give it a good sand. Start with a belt sander and a 40 grit belt and then an 80 grit belt to sand the top of the table. Make sure to follow the grain of the timber when you're sanding. Then use an orbital sander on the legs and shelf with an 80 grit pad and then 240 grit sandpaper to finish it off. Wipe away any dust.
Wax the table
To finish off the table you can paint, varnish or wax it. We used a natural wax to protect the table and bring out the natural grain of the timber. Apply as many coats as necessary. For our table, we applied two coats.
Put your table into position
Now you can move the table into place once its dry. The pallet slats with their different coloured timber makes this hall table unique and a great addition to your home.
More D.I.Y. Advice
Health & Safety
Please make sure you use all equipment appropriately and safely when following the advice in these D.I.Y. videos. You need to be familiar with how to use equipment safely and follow the instructions that came with the equipment. If you are unsure, you may feel it is safest to consult an expert, such as the manufacturer or an expert Bunnings Team Member.
Grave health hazards are linked to asbestos, which may be in homes built up to 1990. Health hazards may result from exposure to lead-based paints in older materials and copper chromium arsenic (CCA) treated timber. For information on the dangers of asbestos, lead-based paint and CCA treated timber and tips for dealing with these materials contact your local council's Environmental Health Officer.
Please make sure you use all equipment appropriately and safely when following the advice in these D.I.Y. videos. You need to be familiar with how to use equipment safely and follow the instructions that came with the equipment. If you are unsure, you may feel it is safest to consult an expert, such as the manufacturer or an expert Bunnings Team Member.
Grave health hazards are linked to asbestos, which may be in homes built up to 1990. Health hazards may result from exposure to lead-based paints in older materials and copper chromium arsenic (CCA) treated timber. For information on the dangers of asbestos, lead-based paint and CCA treated timber and tips for dealing with these materials contact your local council's Environmental Health Officer.