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D.I.Y. freestanding mirror

A narrow dressing room with a copper pipe clothes rack and full-length mirror in a timber frame

Overview

Every bedroom and walk-in wardrobe needs a full-length mirror. We'll show you how easy it is to transform a sliding fitted wardrobe door mirror into a fantastic looking full-length, freestanding mirror that can be moved to any room in your home.

Steps

1Cut your timber to size

Before you start this project, you can have your plywood, pine and Blackbutt decking cut to length at your local Bunnings. The length and width of your timber frame will be determined by the size of the mirror you will be installing, ours measured 593mm x 1875mm. Here's our cut list for this project:

  • 1880mm x 42mm x 30mm pine lengths x 2
  • 655mm x 42mm x 30mm pine lengths x 2
  • 90mm x 19mm x 655mm blackbutt decking board x 3
  • 90mm x 19mm x 1765mm blackbutt decking board x 3
  • 1880mm x 655mm plywood x 1
Lengths of timber and plywood and a sliding wardrobe mirror door in packaging

2Assemble the frame

To make the frame, lay the four pieces of pine out on your workbench. When it's all square, pre-drill two holes into each corner of the frame using the 2mm drill bit. After you have pre-drilled your pilot holes, screw the frame together with 60mm timber screws.
A person drilling holes in the corner of a pine timber frame

3Fix the plywood backing to the frame

Place the plywood on top of the frame so the edges are flush. Use clamps to hold it in position while you secure it. Working along one of the long sides, fix the plywood to the frame using the 40mm screws. Drill the screws about 200mm apart and check the edges are still flush as you work your way around the frame.
A person positioning a plywood sheet onto a timber frame

4Putty and sand the plywood

Before painting the back of the frame, putty up all of the screw holes. Once dry, sand it back and wipe away the dust. Remember to put on your dust mask and safety glasses while you sand.
A person filling a hole in plywood using wood filler

5Paint the back and sides of the frame

Before painting the back of the frame, putty up all of the screw holes. Once dry, sand it back and wipe away the dust. Remember to put on your dust mask and safety glasses while you sand.
A person painting a plywood panel white

6Prepare the mirror

We have used a mirror from a wardrobe kit, so we need to remove the rubber seals and door guide first. Use a hammer and chisel to remove the pop rivets that hold the guide in place. Be careful not to damage the mirror. Now place the mirror inside the frame.
A person using a hammer and chisel to remove door guides from a mirror door

7Make the inner timber bead

To make the inner timber bead, you'll need to cut one length of 655mm and one length of 1765mm Blackbutt timber in half lengthways. Measure and mark a line down the centre of each timber length. Clamp the timber down to the bench, set the guide on your circular saw and cut the wood down the middle. This will be for the inner surround frame around the mirror.
A person cutting a piece of timber lengthwise using a circular saw

8Cut the timber bead to size

Measure the width and the height of the mirror. The top and bottom of our mirror measured 542mm while both sides measured 1733mm. Mark these distances on the pieces of blackbutt you've already cut lengthways, and then cut them to these measurements.
A person measuring the width of a wardrobe mirror door

9Silicone the bead in place

Once you've cut the timber bead, place it on the mirror, pushed up against the thin aluminium surround. Making sure that it fits perfectly around the mirror, silicone it into place. While the silicone dries, use clamps to hold it securely.
A person fixing a timber frame around the edge of a mirror

10Attach the outer frame

Now take the four remaining intact lengths of blackbutt decking – ours measured 655mm each for the top and bottom and 1765mm each for the sides. Place them around the edge so they're flush with the pine frame. Fix the timber into place with your nail gun. Wear your safety glasses and earmuffs when using the nail gun. You might want to use a nail punch to push the nails further into the timber if you need to.
A person assembling lengths of timber into a rectangular frame for a mirror

11Putty the frame

Use wood putty that matches your timber to fill any holes and gaps in the frame. Once the putty is dry, sand it off. Wipe away any dust.
A person filling a gap in a piece of timber using wood filler

12Varnish the frame

To protect the mirror while you're varnishing the frame, put masking tape around the edges. Stir the varnish well to remove any lumps. Apply the varnish in nice smooth strokes. Wait for it to dry then lightly sand it. Wipe away any dust and apply a second coat. Remove the masking tape and your freestanding mirror is finished.
A person varnishing a timber frame with a brush

13Place in your bedroom

All that's left to do is put your mirror in place and enjoy!
A narrow dressing room with clothes, shoes and a full-length mirror in a timber frame
Health & Safety

Please make sure you use all equipment appropriately and safely when following the advice in these D.I.Y. videos. You need to be familiar with how to use equipment safely and follow the instructions that came with the equipment. If you are unsure, you may feel it is safest to consult an expert, such as the manufacturer or an expert Bunnings Team Member.

Grave health hazards are linked to asbestos, which may be in homes built up to 1990. Health hazards may result from exposure to lead-based paints in older materials and copper chromium arsenic (CCA) treated timber. For information on the dangers of asbestos, lead-based paint and CCA treated timber and tips for dealing with these materials contact your local council's Environmental Health Officer. You can also use a simple test kit from Bunnings to indicate the presence of lead-based paint.