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Curtain hanging on a curtain rod


Dressing your windows for success (and warmth and privacy) is as easy as installing a rod for ready-made curtains. Here’s how.


1Refresh your windows

New curtains are a quick and easy room update. Choose a rod at least 200mm wider than the actual window, measuring from outside the frame or trim, so the full window is exposed when the curtains are open. Check the brackets are deep enough to hold the curtains away from the wall so they can be drawn easily, and the fabric can hang without creasing. Some kits have adjustable rods and brackets.

These instructions are for installing into plasterboard with studs. There is usually a support stud either side of a window, but use a stud finder to check there is a solid surface to support the brackets.

Top tips:

  1. Measure from the floor up to the top of the window frame, then check the nearest standard length ready-made curtain to determine where the brackets for the rod will be positioned.
  2. Curtains should be about double the width of the window and just skim the floor

2Mark the brackets

Mark the top of the brackets either side of the actual window frame, at least 75mm above and 150mm to the side. Tip: If the window is wider than about 1200mm, or the curtains are particularly heavy, centre a third bracket above the window. Most curtain rod kits include a third bracket with fasteners.

A pair of hands marking a window frame to install curtain brackets

3Mark the holes

With a bracket as the template, mark the holes either side of the window, using a small level to double-check they’re vertically lined up. Safety tip: Before drilling into walls, use a stud finder to check for wiring and pipework, and turn off the power while working.

A pair of hands marking the drill holes on a wall

4Assemble the brackets

If the curtain rod kit has adjustable brackets, assemble them using the supplied link screws with a screwdriver, adjusting the projections to be the same length.

Green Bunnings hammer
Tip: It’s easiest to assemble the brackets before affixing them to the wall, rather than after.
A person adjusts a curtain rod bracket before securing to wall

5Position brackets and secure

Pre-drill holes into the studs with a 3mm bit, then position the brackets and secure with supplied screws. Use a long screwdriver or extended driver bit with a drill to tighten screws.

Green Bunnings hammer
Tip: If the wall is masonry or hollow behind the plasterboard, secure screws using appropriate anchors (see ‘Which wall?’, below).
A person screws curtain rod brackets into wall

6Fit rod to brackets

If the rod is adjustable, expand it to fit across the window and twist to lock. Remove one finial from the rod by unscrewing or using the supplied hex key to loosen the grub screw. Thread the rod through the curtain eyelets, tabs or pockets.

Green Bunnings hammer
Tip: For eyelets, ‘concertina’ the curtains so the end rings face outwards.
Threading a ready-made curtain through a curtain rod

7Attach finial

Replace the finial, winding it back onto the rod or tightening the grub screw. Even out the curtains so one eyelet or tab is on the outside of the brackets, then position the rod, securing it to the brackets with the supplied screws to prevent sliding.

Attaching a finial to the end of a curtain rod

8Which wall?

Before drilling, you need to know what sort of wall you’re working with.

Hollow plasterboard: Plasterboard anchors provide a solid grip against the back of the wall. Choose anchors that can hold the combined weight of rod and curtain and check they suit 8G screws, which will be supplied with the curtain rod brackets.

Masonry: Use masonry anchor grips, checking they are appropriate to the weight and size screws provided with the brackets. Fit drill with a masonry bit in the size recommended on the packet to pre-drill holes for anchors.

9You’ve got venetian blinds instead?

Our 3 step guide to installing venetian blinds will help you get your windows covered in no time.


Photo Credit: Cath Muscat and Natasha Dickins

Health & Safety

Please make sure you use all equipment appropriately and safely when following the advice in these D.I.Y. videos. You need to be familiar with how to use equipment safely and follow the instructions that came with the equipment. If you are unsure, you may feel it is safest to consult an expert, such as the manufacturer or an expert Bunnings Team Member.

Grave health hazards are linked to asbestos, which may be in homes built up to 1990. Health hazards may result from exposure to lead-based paints in older materials and copper chromium arsenic (CCA) treated timber. For information on the dangers of asbestos, lead-based paint and CCA treated timber and tips for dealing with these materials contact your local council's Environmental Health Officer. You can also use a simple test kit from Bunnings to indicate the presence of lead-based paint.