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How to paint weatherboards

Video showing how to paint weatherboards

Overview

While incredibly durable, weatherboards bear the brunt of New Zealand’s harsh weather, meaning they could use some maintenance every now and then. If you’re looking to transform your home with just one project, painting your weatherboards is a great place to start – it will have an immediate effect and ensure the longevity of your home’s exterior for years to come with a new protective layer.

It’s important to invest in proper weatherboard paint for this project – it will make such a big difference to the final result, protecting your surfaces and making future touch-ups even easier.

Steps

1Establish if it’s the right weather

First, you need to establish whether the weather is on your side! Don’t paint when it's too hot, too cold or rainy. The temperature should be above 10° and below 35°C. If you're painting on a hot day, try to work on the shady side of the house. 
Clear sky on a sunny day

2Clean the weatherboards

If it's good painting weather, you can prepare your surfaces. Clean the weatherboards down using a brush or broom, removing cobwebs from beneath the eaves or around the gutters. 
Person cleaning weatherboards with a small brush

3Scrape off those loose flakes

Use a high-pressure hose or paint scraper to remove any flaking paint. If you use a hose, leave the surfaces to dry completely before moving on. 
A person scraping weatherboards with a paint scraper

4Sand the boards

Grab your sander and sand back your weatherboards to a smooth surface. This will allow the paint to stick better. Be sure to wear your dust mask and eye protection when you're sanding. 
A person wearing a mask sanding weatherboards with a cordless sander

5Fill in the gaps

Fill any cracks or gaps between the boards with an exterior gap filler. Use a product that is UV-resistant and has some flexibility, so it will withstand changes in the weather. Apply the filler using a caulking gun or scraper, then wipe down with a damp cloth.
A person filling gaps in weatherboards using gap filler

6Mask off areas

Before we get to the fun stuff, let’s not ruin our window frames. Use painter's tape to mask off areas such as door and window frames – and don’t forget your doggy door!
A person masking around a window with masking tape

7Primer

Apply a coat of primer or undercoat to the boards. Primer covers over any areas of exposed timber and ensures that your topcoat colour doesn't turn out patchy.
A person painting new weatherboards with primer

8Start cutting

Once the primer has completely dried, you’re ready to move onto the topcoat. Start by using a paint brush to cut in along the edges and underneath the weatherboards – anywhere it will be difficult to get at with the roller. Be sure to give the paint a good stir before you start, and empty some into a smaller pot to make it more manageable.

A person painting the edges of weatherboards

9Use your roller and leave to dry

Now to really get those weatherboards painted. Pour your paint into a paint tray, load up the roller and get cracking! 

For best results, begin at the top and work your way down. Paint the underside of the boards first, then the face. Use long strokes in a horizontal motion from one side to the other. Avoid stopping halfway along a board as the paint will dry and you’ll get a visible overlapping, which is difficult to correct. Depending on your walls, you may need to use an extension pole or a ladder. If you're working on a ladder, be sure work safely. 

Once you've finished, let the paint dry and then apply a second coat, starting with the cutting in again. Before the final coat dries completely, remove the painter's tape and you're done!

A person painting weatherboards with a small roller

10Let’s paint!

Ready to transform your home with one easy project? Explore our range of weatherboard paints. 
Health & Safety

Please make sure you use all equipment appropriately and safely when following the advice in these D.I.Y. videos. You need to be familiar with how to use equipment safely and follow the instructions that came with the equipment. If you are unsure, you may feel it is safest to consult an expert, such as the manufacturer or an expert Bunnings Team Member.

Grave health hazards are linked to asbestos, which may be in homes built up to 1990. Health hazards may result from exposure to lead-based paints in older materials and copper chromium arsenic (CCA) treated timber. For information on the dangers of asbestos, lead-based paint and CCA treated timber and tips for dealing with these materials contact your local council's Environmental Health Officer.