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Overview
Painting your picket or timber fence will not only boost your home’s street appeal but it will also help to protect it from weathering. Here's our D.I.Y. guide on how you can paint your timber fence using a paint brush and roller.
Safety tip: Always wear the appropriate safety equipment (safety glasses, for example) and always follow the instructions for the product or equipment.
Steps
Check the weather before painting your fence
Before you start painting, stop and check the weather forecast - the last thing you want is to start painting only for it to rain and wash away all your hard work. Look for a window of 2–3 warm, sunny days (but not too hot) in a row to give yourself plenty of time to get the job done (allow more time if you have a larger area to paint).
Clean your fence
Good preparation is the key to a great finish. Start by giving the space a good sweep, then place a drop sheet on the ground where you'll be working (push the drop sheet under the fence if possible). Now it's time to remove any dirt, cobwebs, or loose debris with a stiff broom. Next, use a hose or pressure washer (if you have one) to give the fence a good clean. Wait for the fence to dry and then move on to the next step.
Prepare the fence surface for painting
Use a paint scraper to remove any flaky paint from the fence. Then use the sandpaper or sanding block to smooth out any rough spots. Take your time and be thorough – the better your preparation is the better finish you'll achieve. Finish your preparation by wiping away any dust with a clean, dry cloth.
Protect the surrounding area
You've already laid drop sheets but don't forget to cover up anything else that you don't want painted. For example, mask off any hardware or hinges or anything else that you want to protect.
Apply the first coat of paint
Before you begin painting, don't forget to give your paint a good stir to ensure that it is fully mixed. Working in a small area (for example, 3–4 pickets wide), begin by cutting in on the sides of the pickets or along any edges that can't be reached by a roller. Then, while you still have a wet edge, use the roller to paint the flat side of the fence palings so the paint blends evenly. Repeat this process until the first coat is complete.
Allow proper drying time
Check the paint tin for recommended drying times. Most exterior paints will need several hours to dry before recoating. Don’t rush this step – letting the first coat cure properly will help you get a better and longer lasting finish.
Apply the second coat
Now that your first coat is dry, it's time to repeat the same process for your second coat. A second coat will help to even out any thin spots and provide better protection from the weather.
Clean up time
You're almost finished! Last thing to do is clean your brushes and roller (water is fine for water-based paints but if you used an oil-based paint then you'll need to clean your equipment with mineral turpentine), pack away your drop sheet and admire your handiwork!
Ready to give your fence a makeover?
Visit your local store today to gather everything you need to paint and transform your fence.
More D.I.Y. Advice
Health & Safety
Please make sure you use all equipment appropriately and safely when following the advice in these D.I.Y. videos. You need to be familiar with how to use equipment safely and follow the instructions that came with the equipment. If you are unsure, you may feel it is safest to consult an expert, such as the manufacturer or an expert Bunnings Team Member.
Grave health hazards are linked to asbestos, which may be in homes built up to 1990. Health hazards may result from exposure to lead-based paints in older materials and copper chromium arsenic (CCA) treated timber. For information on the dangers of asbestos, lead-based paint and CCA treated timber and tips for dealing with these materials contact your local council's Environmental Health Officer.
Please make sure you use all equipment appropriately and safely when following the advice in these D.I.Y. videos. You need to be familiar with how to use equipment safely and follow the instructions that came with the equipment. If you are unsure, you may feel it is safest to consult an expert, such as the manufacturer or an expert Bunnings Team Member.
Grave health hazards are linked to asbestos, which may be in homes built up to 1990. Health hazards may result from exposure to lead-based paints in older materials and copper chromium arsenic (CCA) treated timber. For information on the dangers of asbestos, lead-based paint and CCA treated timber and tips for dealing with these materials contact your local council's Environmental Health Officer.