To make this project easier we’ve had our ply pre-cut at Bunnings.

First, we cut our 90mm x 45mm Tasmanian oak into:

• 335mm x 2 (front legs)
• 340mm x 2 (back legs)
• 500mm x 2 (support frame for front and back)
• 510mm x 2 (sides)
• 320mm x 2 (supports)
• 405mm x 1 (slat support)

We then took our 85mm x 19mm Blackbutt timber and had it cut into:

• 500mm x 6 (for the back)
• 460mm x 6 (for the seat)

Choose the nicest pieces of timber for the faces of the chair. You need two 500mm pieces for the back and front and two 510mm pieces for the side. Clamp each piece of timber to the workbench so that it doesn’t move. Pre-drill the ends with the 5.5mm bit and screw the frame together using 75mm bugle screws.

We want the back legs of the chair to have extra support, so we’re mitre cutting them. Set the mitre saw to 10-degrees. Cut the first end of the leg. Measure and mark for the second mitre cut. 

Once the mitre is cut, measure and mark for the taper on the leg. To get the taper, measure half the width of the leg and mark on a diagonal the length of the leg to the top.  Use a level to mark a straight line.

Clamp the timber onto a work bench. Use a circular saw to rip the timber. Then make the second 10-degree mitre cut at the top of the leg. Repeat the previous steps to make the second back leg.

Measure and mark 335mm on the timber for the first front leg. To mark the taper, measure half the width of the leg and mark on a diagonal the length of the leg to the top. Use a level to mark a straight line.

Clamp the timber onto the work bench. Use a circular saw to cut the taper. Then make a straight cut at the desired length of the leg.

Lay out where the legs will go. Remember, the tapered edges face inside each leg.

All the legs sit flush to the external edges and will be attached to the base using evenly spaced dowel dowel. Measure and mark the frame for the position of the dowel. Measure and mark the holes for the dowel. Make sure they’re the same distance apart as the frame.

Using the 11mm drill bit, drill holes in the frame about 25mm deep to allow for glue. Also pre-drill the legs. Clamp the legs to the work bench then drill holes all four.

Squeeze PVA glue into the holes in the frame. Insert the dowel into the hole. Use the hammer to gently tap the dowel into the holes. Then put the leg on top of the dowel. Remember that the tapered edges face inside on each leg. For drying time follow the instructions on the glue bottle. Repeat the process to attach all four legs.

The frame for the back of the chair consists of two supports and two uprights. The timber for the ends of the uprights need to be mitre cut using a drop saw. Make the first mitre cut at 10-degrees, the same as the back legs, measure the desired 500mm length and make the second mitre cut. Repeat the process for the second upright.

Lay-out the frame, making sure the supports sit flush to the shorter edge of the mitre cuts on the uprights. Once in place, measure and mark for the dowels. Clamp the piece of timber to the workbench. Pre-drill two holes in each end with an 11mm drill bit. Repeat this for the other three pieces of the frame.

Put PVA glue in the holes for the dowel. Insert the dowel. Use the hammer to gently tap the dowel into the holes. Join the frame together and leave the glue to dry.

Before joining the back of the chair and the base frame you need to attach a support to the base frame. Take a 90mm x 45mm x 405mm piece of timber and place it so that it’s at the back of the base frame and flush to both sides. Take the cordless drill and 5.5mm drill bit to pre-drill the holes. Attach the support with the 75mm bugle screws.

The two frames will be joined together using dowel. To do this measure and mark for the 10mm dowels on the base frame at the back and the top frame at the bottom.  Make sure the measurements for the two dowel on the base frame line up with those of the top frame, so when the frames are attached it’s square. Clamp the timber to the work bench and pre-drill the holes for the dowel with the 11mm drill bit. Repeat so there are two holes in the centre at each end.

Place PVA glue in the holes. Place dowel in the holes. Gently tap them down with a hammer. Insert the back of the chair onto the base frame. Clamp the two frames together. Let the glue dry.

Use the drop saw to cut the six slats for the seat of the chair. Remember to make sure one end has a straight edge and the other has a 10-degree mitre cut.

Once you’ve cut the slats, attach the two end ones, making sure there is a 20mm overhang on each side. Be sure they are square before applying glue to the frame. Secure with the fixing gun. Evenly space the other slats in between. Glue and secure with the fixing gun. Remove any excess glue as you go.  

Measure the height of the back frame for the slats. Remember, the top and bottom will be mitred at the same angle as the back of the chair so allow for this in your measurements. Ours measured 500mm. 

Set up the drop saw for 10-degree mitre cuts. Make the first mitre cut. Measure out 500mm and make your next mitre cut. The mitre cut should be the same angle as the back of the chair frame.

Secure the back slats using the same process as the seat. Make sure the back slats are in line with the seat slats. Space the slats evenly. Glue and fix into place wiping away any excess glue.

Now the chair is built, putty up the holes. Let the putty dry and lightly sand it with 120 grit sandpaper.

You can paint or stain your chair to suit your décor. We’ve gone with a clear, hard-wearing exterior stain to bring out the natural grain of the timber and protect it from the elements. You may need to apply several coats of varnish. Let it dry and give it a light sand in-between coats.

Now you’ve finished making your hardwood chair, all you need to do is decide where to put it. You can put it on display by placing it in an otherwise empty corner, or making it a place to relax on your verandah or outdoor area.