D.I.Y. floating hardwood vanity

D.I.Y. floating hardwood vanity

James, Team member
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D.I.Y. floating hardwood vanity

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Project Overview

This stylish timber floating vanity makes a great centrepiece for your bathroom. It not only looks fantastic, it can be easily adapted to fit whatever space you have available. This step-by-step guide will help you create a designer look in your bathroom without spending a fortune. Continue to step-by-step instructions
Man measuring tile on work bench before cutting
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Measure twice, cut once

You can rub out a pencil mark but you can’t undo a cut from your saw. Whether you are working with timber, tiles, glass or any other building material, you should always double check your measurements before you cut.

Step by Step Instructions

1 Choose your timber
2 Prepare your bathroom
3 Sand the timber
4 Join the two pieces of timber together
5 Remove any excess glue
6 Make the boards level
7 Remove the clamps
8 Sand the timber
9 Make a second board
10 Choose the top of your vanity
11 Cut a 45-degree mitre at one end
12 Measure and mark the length of your vanity
13 Clamp and cut the timber
14 Measure and mark the panels
15 Cut the timber at 90 degrees
16 Measure, mark and cut at 45 degrees
17 Sand the edge of the return
18 Measure, mark and cut the rebate
19 Join the mitred timber
20 Attach the end piece to the top of the vanity
21 Attach the shelf to the vanity
22 Attach the brackets and putty holes
23 Varnish the timber
24 Measure, mark and drill holes for the reo bars
25 Lift the vanity into place
26 Apply glue to the reo bars
27 Tap the vanity into place
28 Add the finishing touches

  • Step 1. Choose your timber

    When choosing the timber for your vanity make sure it’s straight across all planes. Lift the plank and look along the edge, making sure it isn’t twisted or bowed. Also, make sure the timber is the same width. Our vanity will have two hand basins and be 1500mm long.
    Previous Step Next Step
    man clamping timber panel

  • Step 2. Prepare your bathroom

    Before you start this project, determine where the vanity will go. Use a licenced electrician and plumber to install the necessary power outlets and plumbing fixtures.
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    bathroom without diy floating hardwood vanity

  • Step 3. Sand the timber

    Ensure the two planks for the top of your vanity are face side up. Sand and clean the edges and faces to be joined. They don’t have to be sanded smooth, if they’re a little rough it will help the glue adhere to the surface.
    Previous Step Next Step
    person sanding timber with an electric sander

  • Step 4. Join the two pieces of timber together

    Stand the timber and liberally apply glue to the joining edges. Clamp the two pieces of timber together. Place offcuts of timber between the clamps and the wood to protect the timber. Put two sash clamps on top of the wood to make sure the timber doesn’t bow.
    Previous Step Next Step
    person putting glue on timber edge

  • Step 5. Remove any excess glue

    Use a chisel to remove any excess glue from the top of the boards. Wipe the excess glue onto a rag.
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    person removing excess glue with a chisel

  • Step 6. Make the boards level

    To make the boards level, place one block of offcut timber underneath and another on top. Use a hammer to hit the offcut timber on top of the wood until your spirit level indicates it is level. Clean off any excess glue and leave it to dry.
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    person using a hammer

  • Step 7. Remove the clamps

    Once the glue has dried, remove the clamps. Use a chisel to carefully remove any excess glue from the top and bottom of the timber.
    Previous Step Next Step
    clamping boards together

  • Step 8. Sand the timber

    Use your belt sander to sand the timber until it has a nice, smooth finish. Remember to always sand with the grain.
    Previous Step Next Step
    person sanding timber with an electric sander

  • Step 9. Make a second board

    Repeat each step to make a second board for your vanity.
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    man holding board

  • Step 10. Choose the top of your vanity

    As well as selecting the best piece for your top, choose which front edge will be the one that faces the room. Once selected, mark them both with tape.
    Previous Step Next Step
    person writing on masking tape on board

  • Step 11. Cut a 45-degree mitre at one end

    Once you’ve chosen the top of your vanity, clamp the timber to your workbench. Wrap masking tape around the timber where you’re going to cut. Use the circular saw to cut the timber at a 45-degree angle.
    Previous Step Next Step
    Making a 45 degree mitre cut with a circular saw

  • Step 12. Measure and mark the length of your vanity

    From the mitre cut, measure how long you want the vanity to be, ours is 1500mm. Mark this and wrap masking tape around the timber where you’re going to cut.
    Previous Step Next Step
    marking and measuring timber

  • Step 13. Clamp and cut the timber

    With the timber clamped to the workbench use a mitre saw to cut the other end of the top of the vanity at 90 degrees.
    Previous Step Next Step
    person clamping wood

  • Step 14. Measure and mark the panels

    On the second piece of timber, measure and mark for the end, base and return panels. The lengths we used were:
    • 350mm (end panel)
    • 690mm (base panel)
    • 200mm (return panel)

    Also, we added a few extra centimetres to make the timber more manageable.

    Previous Step Next Step
    marking and measuring timber panel

  • Step 15. Cut the timber at 90 degrees

    Clamp the timber to the workbench. Wrap masking tape around where you’re going to cut. Use a circular saw to cut the three pieces of timber at 90 degrees.
    Previous Step Next Step
    cutting timber with a circular saw

  • Step 16. Measure, mark and cut at 45 degrees

    Take the three pieces of timber and measure and mark them at 350mm, 690mm and 200mm. Wrap masking tape around the timber where you’re going to cut. Clamp the timber to the workbench and cut it at 45 degrees. Remember, they need to be in opposite directions – except for the return panel, which is only mitred at one end.
    Previous Step Next Step
    marking and measuring timber

  • Step 17. Sand the edge of the return

    Once you’ve made all your mitre cuts, sand the edge of the return. This will be on show, so it needs a smooth finish. Mark each piece of timber so you know which piece is the end, base and return panels.
    Previous Step Next Step
    sanding edge of board

  • Step 18. Measure, mark and cut the rebate

    Place two brackets on the back edges of the timber that attach to the wall. Mark where they will go. Use a set square to ensure your line is square and measure the distance. Clamp the timber in a vice and use a router to cut a rebate in the back edges for the brackets.
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    person using a router

  • Step 19. Join the mitred timber

    Put the edges of the timber that will be exposed face down before gluing, this will ensure the face edges are aligned. Liberally apply glue to the mitred edges. Tape the pieces of timber together and use a nail gun to fix them permanently.
    Previous Step Next Step
    putting mitre joints together

  • Step 20. Attach the end piece to the top of the vanity

    Apply glue to the end piece where it will join to the bottom of the vanity. Stick the two pieces together with masking tape. Use a nail gun to secure them.
    Previous Step Next Step
    fixing timber together with a nail gun

  • Step 21. Attach the shelf to the vanity

    Apply glue to the end piece and the shelf of the vanity where they will join. Line up the shelf and end piece. Tape the two pieces together, then use a nail gun to join them.
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    person using a nail gun

  • Step 22. Attach the brackets and putty holes

    Place the two brackets in the rebated edge. Attach to the vanity using a drill and screws. These will give added strength to your vanity. Putty and fill any holes or cracks in the timber. Let it dry and sand it back with 120 grit sandpaper.
    Previous Step Next Step
    person attaching a metal bracket to timber

  • Step 23. Varnish the timber

    To bring out the natural look of the timber we’re using Cabot’s Cabothane Clear varnish. Let the first coat dry and lightly sand it back. Wipe away any sawdust. Apply at least three coats, sanding between each coat.
    Previous Step Next Step
    Person applying cabothane clear varnish to timber with a brush

  • Step 24. Measure, mark and drill holes for the reo bars

    Transfer the locations for the holes for the reo bars to the back of your vanity. Use the drill and an appropriately sized drill bit to drill the holes in the back of the vanity for the reo bars. Drill the holes into the vanity a little deeper than the length of the reo, this allows for the excess glue.
    Previous Step Next Step
    drilling holes in bathroom wall

  • Step 25. Lift the vanity into place

    Have someone help you lift the vanity into place, so that the holes are lined up with the reo bars. Place something underneath the vanity to help support its weight.
    Previous Step Next Step
    install vanity in bathroom

  • Step 26. Apply glue to the reo bars

    Liberally apply high strength glue to the reo bars.
    Previous Step Next Step
    applying glue to reo bar

  • Step 27. Tap the vanity into place

    Push the vanity against the wall so that the reo bars go into the drilled holes in the vanity. Use a rubber mallet to gently tap the vanity into place. Use a spirit level to check that it’s straight.
    Previous Step Next Step
    tapping vanity into place with a rubber mallet

  • Step 28. Add the finishing touches

    Now that your floating vanity is complete, add the finishing touches by selecting the taps, sinks and décor to suit your bathroom.
    Previous Step Next Step
    floating hardwood vanity

Tools and Materials

Tools

  • Adjustable square
  • Belt sander
  • Circular saw with a fine cutting blade
  • Clamps
  • Corner sander
  • Cutting straight edge
  • Hammer
  • Measuring tape
  • Nail gun
  • Paint brush
  • Pencil
  • Router
  • 80, 120 and 180 grit sandpaper
  • Sash clamps
  • Scraper
  • Set square
  • Spirit level
  • Stirrer
  • T-square
  • Wide blade chisel

Materials

  • 45mm thick F17 hardwood (multiple lengths)
  • 100mm corner bracing brackets x 6
  • 12mm x 450mm reo bars x 10
  • Cement
  • Glue
  • Liquid nails
  • Masking tape
  • PVA wood glue
  • Screws

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